What are the different types of suits

Collar & lapel

What is the collar? What is the lapel? And what is the crochet seam and the shape? tailorjack.de provides information and tips on when which collar is suitable.

Collar, lapel, style, crochet seam: terms briefly explained

A collar is what surrounds the neck. With the jacket, the collar is the upper part of the neck. The lapel is the turned-up lower part of a jacket, coat or blazer. The union of collar and lapel is called "Fasson". Collar and lapel are connected to one another by the so-called crochet or mirror seam. A distinction is made between a falling and a pointed lapel.

The crochet seam on the collar knows it's down. If the lapel follows this seam, an acute angle is created, the so-called crochet angle. A small 'cut out' triangle forms between the lapel and the collar. This collar shape is known as a 'falling lapel'. It is probably the typical collar shape at the moment.

Rising lapels were very popular in the 1920s to 1940s. This is also known from Mafia films. The broken, rising lapel is also known as an intermediate form.

In addition to these two basic shapes, there is the so-called shawl collar, which is often found on tuxedos (in shiny silk fabric). With this collar shape there is no visible crochet seam.

Lapel width and shape: fashion, style or medium

Over the decades and centuries, the fashion for preferred collar widths and collar shapes has changed constantly and also varies by country and continent. At the moment (this text will be written in 2017) narrower collars are considered fashionable - but that can change very quickly. One only needs to remember the particularly wide suit lapels of the 1970s. Basically it is perhaps the interest of the fashion industry to change the modern look again and again in order to give the customers new buying incentives again and again.

Basically, it can be said: types with a narrow face look very good on broad collars, while men with a broad face (and figure) or shorter men may be flattered by a narrower collar. The current collar shape for the business suit and the suit for 'all occasions' has a notch lapel. Pointed collars - we sometimes also call them mafia collars - are at least currently more for extravagant types, special occasions or swing dance parties. But, you should never say never: For some 'types', slightly wider pointed collars are perhaps just the right 'style-forming' means (of course, combined with a chic pocket square).

With a tailor-made suit, there is a personal choice of narrow or wide lapels / collars and pointed lapels. Here you can find your own, suitable style without the dictates of the fashion industry.

The number of buttons (1 to 4 button jackets) and the choice between single and double-breasted suits naturally influence the overall appearance of the jacket. Basically, you can say that 'anything goes' - because all combinations of number of buttons and type of lapel have existed in the past.

However, some typical manifestations are:

  • The business suit with notch lapels as a two-button, single-breasted version with normal or narrow lapels.
  • The double-breasted suit as a two-button or one-button version combined with a pointed collar (notched lapel). The lapel has a rather normal width.

  • The one-button version as a single-breasted suit with a round shawl collar, often worn with a tuxedo

In the end, everything has to fit

Of course, in addition to the collar width and lapel shape, the rest of the cut of the entire suit and the choice of fabric are decisive. With an extravagant fabric - e.g. in a chic plaid - a lapel that is too wide could look a bit silly for many. For the others, this is exactly the combination for an appearance with a special effect. Last but not least, there is the decision to choose a vest to suit.
Our tip: Have a look through the archives of film history. From 'The Godfather' and 'The Untouchables' to 'Blues Brothers' or and especially in James Bond films you will find many exciting suit types. Simply implement your suit type: of course, very individually and tailor-made.




Collar and lapel types.




Go ahead. At tailorjack you can design tailor-made suits with a passport guarantee yourself. Choose from various high-quality fabrics and create your own personal suit style.